The Way You'll Be Making Scrambled Eggs From Now On
The Way You'll Be Making Scrambled Eggs From Now On
The Chefs: Jeremy Wolfe and Colin Stringer
Illustration:
MICHAEL HOEWELER
Their Restaurant: Nonesuch, in Oklahoma City
What They’re Known For: Tasting menus that draw diners from far and wide. Modernist dishes that spotlight meticulously sourced ingredients.
YOU MIGHT CALL IT fast food slow. At the buzzy Oklahoma City restaurant Nonesuch, chefs Colin Stringer and Jeremy Wolfe raise the simplest of dishes, scrambled eggs, to another level entirely. The secret is taking your time and cooking them gently in a double boiler, much as you would a hollandaise, for a creamy, meltingly delicate consistency. “You can’t rush it,” Mr. Stringer said. “And you have to whisk constantly.”
At the restaurant this super-soft scramble comes with caviar or housemade focaccia. In their second Slow Food Fast recipe, the chefs swap in sides of butter-braised potatoes and prosciutto.
Before cooking, beat the eggs thoroughly along with a good glug of cream and a dash of fish sauce, which imparts a satisfying umami flavor. Whisking steadily over indirect heat, you’ll find little change at first. But stick with it and a few minutes in you’ll note the eggs thickening slightly. Then you’ll see small curds; if a large one forms, break it up. The goal is a fine texture, similar to grits. “They should appear almost soupy, but when you dip your spoon in they are set like a custard,” said Mr. Stringer.
The process should take about the same time required for the potatoes to become fully tender and succulent in their buttery braise. In under a half-hour, you’ll have a more luxurious meal than you ever imagined ham and eggs could be.
TOTAL TIME: 25 minutes SERVES: 4
3 Yukon Gold potatoes, very thinly sliced
6 tablespoons butter
2 cups chicken stock, plus more as needed
Kosher salt
9 fresh eggs
¼ cup heavy cream
½ teaspoon fish sauce
12 slices prosciutto or speck
1. Fill a medium pot with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Place potatoes and butter in another medium pot, and pour in enough chicken broth to barely cover potatoes. Set pot with potatoes over medium heat. (Once butter melts, liquid should fully cover potatoes. Add more stock if needed.) Season potatoes with salt and gently simmer until they’re easily pierced with a knife, about 20 minutes.
2. In a heatproof bowl that fits snugly over pot of boiling water, off heat, beat together eggs, cream and fish sauce until well incorporated and no streaks remain. Reduce heat to maintain a simmer, and set bowl on top. (Make sure water doesn’t touch bottom of bowl.) Reduce heat to medium-high and cook, whisking constantly and scraping down sides of bowl as needed with a spatula, until eggs thicken and firm up like a custard, with tiny curds throughout, about 15 minutes. (Cooked eggs should resemble grits.) Taste and season with salt.
3. Serve eggs with slices of prosciutto and butter-poached potatoes alongside.
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