This Elegant Italian Red Wine Is Easy to Love
This Elegant Italian Red Wine Is Easy to Love
The third in a three-part series on wines in Italy’s Piedmont.
BARBARESCO and Barolo are made from the same grape (Nebbiolo) in the same region (Piedmont), and both are among the greatest wines in the world. Yet Barbaresco, Italy’s so-called Queen of Wines, has long played runner-up to Barolo’s King—less expensive, less exalted—save, perhaps, for the Barbarescos of Angelo Gaja.
Mr. Gaja’s father, Giovanni, bought vineyards in the Barbaresco zone more than five decades ago, when it was a far from fashionable move. Angelo Gaja was one of the first to produce a single-vineyard, or cru, Barbaresco, Sorì San Lorenzo, and he followed with two others, Sorì Tilden and Costa Russi. He aged the wines in French barriques in addition to Slavonian oak, the traditional choice. These Barbarescos were unlike any of the time and remain ardently sought and praised.
Today Mr. Gaja’s son and two daughters work alongside him in every aspect of the business. The family also makes wine in Barolo and Tuscany, and soon in Sicily too.
A few weeks ago, Mr. Gaja’s eldest, 39-year-old Gaia Gaja, met me for lunch at Trattoria Antica Torre in the town of Barbaresco, accompanied by her small dog, Briss, whom she found wandering in a vineyard. “I feel like there’s always been less attention paid to Barbaresco,” she said. “But people often tell me they prefer Barbaresco because it’s easier to drink, delicate, more elegant.”
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