The battle for Thanksgiving is heated
The battle for Thanksgiving is heated
Thanksgiving can be A massive cornucopia of anguish. You are up to date with a full case of PSTD (Pumpkin Spice Toxicity Disorder). During the meal, you are harassed in political arguments in which the victory is, in the best of cases, pyrrhic. Do we really need to stack ourselves in one more element of agita?
Many people would say yes. Your turkey, they want you to believe, is not authentic, tasteless or simply boring. They want you to think a lot about replacing the bird that Ben Franklin called a "true native of America ... a bird of courage," with something else. Anything else. You are wrong.
His Thanksgiving table is a stage for an extravagant cast, not only the people around him, but also the food: sweet potatoes with marshmallows, green bean casserole with mushrooms, filling that can range from oysters to blueberries. To keep everything together, you need a star at the top of the tent with a combination of graciousness and gravitas. A domesticated turkey of soft flesh, like a White Broadbreasted White or even one of its progenitors of inherited race, of great feathers, as big as a floating parade and round like the dome of the Capitol, is the only protein to the task.
Turkey has the difficult balance of supporting, even raising, everything else on the plate, while still exhibiting enough character to not just disappear in the background. A great turkey is Tom Hanks, with giblets.
Skip second-rate birds that supermarkets give away for free after spending $ 97 on other groceries. After all, even the most pampered opulent bird will cost you less than a similar amount of fillet or lamb. And none of those is such an effective delivery system for crunchy skin, sauce and tryptophan.
Are there more interesting proteins than turkey? Of course. There are also more interesting guests for dinner than Uncle Herb, but you would miss him if he had also left. Get rid of the turkey and you do not have Thanksgiving; you have on thursday
I understand the need, as a cook, to want to change things. But I have learned in the most difficult way that what sounds interesting on the page can be dramatic and a little desperate at the table. Your Thanksgiving dinner needs a fish as much as a fish needs a bicycle. And a ham is not a centerpiece of Thanksgiving, it's a cry for help.
"You can always have other options at the Thanksgiving table," said chef Diego Garcia of Four Seasons in New York. "But it's a holiday where you're really cooking for your guests, not for yourself, and your guests will want and expect a turkey for Thanksgiving."
-Matthew Kronsberg
LAMB. HAM. CHICKEN. DOG FOOD. Carton box. Shoelace. Dead flowers. "Any of the above would be preferable to a turkey on Thanksgiving, the author and model of the cookbook Chrissy Teigen recently commented on Twitter." Concrete. Rubber. Wicker. Candle wax, "continued the tweet. "Really anything." I get where she comes from.
It is not that there is something wrong with the turkey, in itself, but that it is very normal. If the turkey was a day of the week, it would be Tuesday. If the turkey was a taste of Skittles, it would be orange. If the turkey were a cloth, it would be corduroy. It's mediocre. And what else would you expect from an animal that is basically a sports version of a chicken? It is not my idea of a fascinating holiday indulgence.
Thousands of recipes have emerged over the years, promising, each in its desperate way, to correct the inherent deficiencies of Turkey. You can try with dry brine, with wet brine, with butter sprinkling it; I threw it out, I smoked it, I fried it. Under all the artifice, however, remains the same old turkey. One year, I invested in a traditional luxury bird, soaked it in brine, wrapped it with imported butter, and then sat in front of the oven with an egg timer so I could rotate it a quarter of a turn every 15 minutes. He finished tasting like corduroy.
So, what to cook instead? If you want to continue with the angle of indigenous species, try an expensive buffalo roast. A cooked field ham offers a lot of unctuous flavor. Or, omit the meat completely, and fill a winter squash with the stuffing we all came for.
Bird Alternative: Virginia Country Ham.
Illustration:
Christopher Testani for The Wall Street Journal, Food Styling by Heather Meldrom, Prop Styling by Carla Gonzalez-Hart, Ham Illustration by Beth Hoeckel
For me, the romance of the holidays is in celebrating the wild abundance. When the Pilgrims and Wampanoag sat down for the first Thanksgiving dinner, their party revolved around food that had been sought, hunted and caught: venison, wild birds, native fruits and seafood such as mussels, whole fish and lobster. (Although wild turkeys probably figured in food, the primacy of the dish was a nineteenth-century invention).
Of these wild delicacies, only one remains available, binding us to the natural world: seafood. The United States has one of the most spectacularly diversified and well-managed fisheries in the world, but most of our national catch is exported to foreign markets instead of eating it at home. I can not think of a better day than Thanksgiving to bet our claim.
So I contacted Paul Greenberg, an expert in seafood and oceans and the author of "The Omega Principle: seafood and the search for a long life and a healthier planet". When I asked him to tell me which is the best fish for the job, he suggested the black sea bass, a fish originally from the east coast with a soft and succulent meat that is very nice for the crowd. Black sea bass stocks are plentiful, and with climate change their range seems to be expanding northward through their traditional Mid-Atlantic terrain to Maine. Shellfish, as a category, also tend to be less carbon intensive than a food grown on land such as turkey. "Nobody had to grow the fish," Greenberg said. "The only energy that is spent is in the harvest." If possible, buy a fish caught online, resulting in the least bycatch.
Black sea bass is also a pretty beautiful fish, with whimsical black scales that flash iridescent blue, a large and expressive head and dramatic fins. "He looks like a character from a Kabuki play," Mr. Greenberg observed. Roast and present it whole, and it will be difficult to find a more attractive holiday center.
-Elizabeth G. Dunn
HOT TURKEY / 4 very different shots on the bird of Thanksgiving
Dark-Contender Turkey: A Heritage Black.
Illustration:
Christopher Testani for The Wall Street Journal, Food Styling by Heather Meldrom, Prop Styling by Carla Gonzalez-Hart, Turkey Illustration by Beth Hoeckel
Carefree classic
There is no shame in wanting the classic profile and the generous white-dark relationship of a wide-chested white turkey. There's nothing wrong with wanting someone else to cook the bird for you. Dickson's Farmstand Meats at the Chelsea Market in Manhattan takes the turkeys raised in the Amish Country of Pennsylvania and draws them dry for 24 hours in a rubbing that includes sage, thyme, marjoram and paprika, before roasting them. The result is juicy and with chopped herbs, like the best roast chicken you've ever eaten, but bigger. They will also send you a raw turkey to roast it. ($ 160 plus shipping for a cooked turkey, 12-14 pounds before cooking, from $ 69.50 for a 10-11 pound uncooked turkey, dicksonsfarmstand.com)
Bronze beauty
In the Virginia foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, KellyBronze turkeys spend months longer than the typical Thanksgiving bird fattening themselves on a diet that includes berries, larvae, and forest nettles and grasslands. A pair of guard llamas called Sierra and Silk Buttons provide protection against predators. When the time comes, these ultra-luxurious turkeys are plucked by hand, then hung as gamebirds for about a week, which serves to concentrate the flavor and soften the meat, already succulent with a generous marbling of intramuscular fat. It is also unusual: the tendons are removed from the legs, which makes them as easy to move as any other part of the bird. (Around $ 12.50 per pound, plus shipping, kellybronze.co.uk)
Texas Turkey
Most of the year, the brick pits at the Kreuz market in Lockhart, Texas, produce some of the best barbecue breasts, ribs and sausages in the country. But for the holiday season, whole turkeys go into the mix. They receive the same treatment of oak smoke later and slower than all other meats, as well as the same classic touch of salt, pepper and cayenne (just a touch). One can imagine letting the simple aesthetics of Kreuz Market inform their banquet: Maybe this is the year to leave grandma's porcelain in the closet and, instead, place the table with sheets of butcher paper, cutlery optional. Do not forget to keep the shell and the tips of the wings for a pot of greens of cabbage. ($ 41 plus shipping for an 8 to 9 pound turkey, kreuzmarket.com)
The chef's choice
In recent years, a longing for firmer, richer meat and a more uniform proportion of dark to white meat has turned the Heritage Black into a sought-after turkey. This domestic breed fell out of favor with the rise of Broadbreasted White, but producers like Joyce Farms have helped it recover, and professional chefs have noticed. Reserve the Thanksgiving dinner at Commander's Palace in New Orleans, and the turkey served will be one of Joyce Farms' Black Blacks. Or you can order your own and bring that experience home. (From $ 99 plus shipping for an 8-11 pound turkey, joyce-farms.com)
-Matthew Kronsberg
FANTASTIC BEASTS / 4 Festive and impressive alternatives suitable for the turkey of Thanksgiving
Alternative bird: sea bass
Illustration:
Christopher Testani for The Wall Street Journal, Food Styling by Heather Meldrom, Prop Styling by Carla Gonzalez-Hart, Fish Illustration by Beth Hoeckel
All about that bass
The black bass weighs up to 4 pounds, which will feed a board of 4-6. Andrea Reusing, chef and owner of Lantern in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, recommends putting fish in olive oil and sea salt, making 1-2 deep cuts in the thickest part of her meat, and cooking it in an oiled skillet at 375 degrees. until the tip of a sharp knife inserted in that fleshy and withdrawn part feels hot against your skin. Rest the fish, carp with aluminum foil, for 10-15 minutes to finish cooking. The Lobster Place in Manhattan supplies large black sea bass by special order and is shipped nationally. Or, ask your fisherman for a local sustainable fishing alternative of the appropriate size and greatness. (From around $ 12 per pound, info@lobsterplace.com)
Act in an exaggerated manner
Cooked ham, also known as "ham of the city", is a staple food for the holidays. But consider the ham of the country, a cured product appreciated for its tasty and complex flavor that is bought without cooking. Usually, this ham is also served raw, prosciutto style, but every Atlanta Thanksgiving chef, Linton Hopkins, bakes one according to his grandfather's method, with delicious results. Soak the ham overnight in cold water, then rub it and dip it in a mixture of 5 gallons of fresh water in 1 quart of peach nectar. Simmer on the stove for 90 minutes, or until tender, then transfer to a broil pan, mark the surface, glaze with honey or sorghum syrup, and cook at 375 degrees for 30 minutes, or until the Meat is tender like corned beef. For this preparation, Mr. Hopkins often purchases Edwards Virginia Smokehouse cooked raw ham. ($ 190, edwardsvaham.com)
Get buffalo
The original red meat of the United States is more lean than meat and a little juicier. Dan and Jill O'Brien of the Wild Idea Buffalo Company raise them as close to the wild as possible, allowing majestic creatures to roam the prairie of South Dakota and feast on native grasses from birth to death. Its majestic roast of buffalo rib is tender and full of flavor. (From $ 185, wildideabuffalo.com)
Squash game
For a main course without meat with a main attraction next to the table, it is difficult to overcome the blue pumpkin Hubbard, a winter variety that has the shape of a turkey and is widely available in farmers' markets. The blue Hubbard does not have much meat because of its weight, but if you cut it in half, you take out the seeds and the handles, this big and beautiful pumpkin offers a festive presentation for an abundant filling. Michael Anthony, chef at Gramercy Tavern in Manhattan, recommends a filling made with kale, mushrooms, mozzarella and sourdough bread for the purpose. If you can not come for a blue hubbard or prefer a pumpkin with more abundant meat, fill in a small selection. Red Kuri or Kabocha pumpkin is an excellent way to go.
-Elizabeth G. Dunn
Bird alternative: Hubbard blue pumpkin.
Illustration:
Christopher Testani for The Wall Street Journal, Food Styling by Heather Meldrom, Prop Styling by Carla Gonzalez-Hart, Squash Illustration by Beth Hoeckel
Pumpkin Stuffed With Hubbard Blue
TOTAL TIME: 1 ¾ hours IT SERVES: 10-12
1 blue zucchini (10 pounds)
10 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
4 large onions, chopped
6 cloves of garlic, chopped
2 stalks of celery cut into cubes
6 cups shiitake mushrooms in quarters
2 bunches of kale, cut, scalded and chopped
8 cups of approximately one day sourdough bread in cubes
2 cups of fresh mozzarella in cubes
½ teaspoon of Provence herbs
2 cups of chicken broth or vegetables
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Parmesan, to grate
one. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut the pumpkin in half lengthwise. Take out the seeds and discard them. Place each half of pumpkin in a mold for leaves, cut them down, and dress them with 4 tablespoons of olive oil and salt and pepper. Roast until tender and golden, about 50 minutes.
two. Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, celery and mushrooms, and cook until lightly browned and soft, about 10 minutes. Add the kale, bread and cheese and mix. Season with herbs, 2 teaspoons of salt and pepper. Add the broth and mix to combine.
3. Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees, cover the Dutch oven and bake for 30 minutes.
Four. Transfer the filling to the cavities of the pumpkin halves. Grate the Parmesan generously on top and return to the oven for 10 minutes so that the flavors melt.
-Adapted from "V is For Vegetables" by Michael Anthony (Little, Brown)
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