Discovering the modern side of Jaipur: an insider's guide
Discovering the modern side of Jaipur: an insider's guide
OF MANY WAYS, Jaipur delivers the cliche fantasies for the first time to India that are repeated mentally: the flutists who preside over ornate courtyards, women with saris drenched in color and men in turbans. But lately, the Rajasthani capital has been dispelling cliché as a new center of contemporary arts and culture in India. The Jaipur Literature Festival attracts half a million people each January, while February attends an international photography festival. The artistic complex Jawahar Kala Kendra, a symphony of geometry by the architect Charles Correa, has just presented its renovation. A modern sculpture park, which reopened its doors in December, is startled at the arches and courtyards of the 18th-century Nahargarh Fort. And Jaipur's reputation as the shopping mecca of India has not diminished. We asked four local experts to help us navigate the road.
The real
SS Maharajah Sawai Padmanabh
Jaipur Singh
Martinis at the Rambagh Palace Polo Bar.
Photo:
Sara Hylton for The Wall Street Journal
FASHION FINDS / Raghavendra Rathore This Rajasthani brand has excellent fabrics and fabulous finishes for achkans and bandhgalas. Ghanerao House 5, Jacob Road, Civil Lines, iicfashion.com.
GLOWING GIFTS / Amrapali and Gem Palace The two emblematic jewelery institutions of Jaipur are fun to visit. Each one has a different style and sells affordable gifts as well as precious gems. Jewels of Amrapali, Panch Batti, M.I. Highway, near the cinema Raj Mandir, amrapalijewels.com. Palace of Gems, Store No. 348, MI Road, gempalace.com.
HORANDO AROUND / Rambagh Polo Grounds Especially during the polo season, but especially throughout the year, one can find myself or others playing, practicing or just playing with horses, especially in the morning or early evening, when it is not so hot. Even during most matches, admission is free. Near the circle of Rambagh, rajasthanpoloclub.co.in
The jeweler
Siddharth Kasliwal
Partner and designer, Gem Palace, and owner, 28 Kothi hotel
EATING LIKE A LOCAL / Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar, Pandit Kulfi Go to Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar in the old city to take samosas and dahi badas. Finish with ice cream in Pandit Kulfi. Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar, Store No. 98-99, Johari Bazar, lmbsweets.com. Pandit Kulfi, 110 Hawa Mahal Market.
A customer classifies the fragrant rose petals that are sold at the wholesale flower market, Phool Mandi.
Photo:
Sara Hylton for The Wall Street Journal
REFINED FLOWER / Phool Mandi Walk through this flower market. There are tons of flowers (marigolds, roses, frangipani), all local. All the flower vendors come there and the merchants gather and gather to take them to different temples. Phool Mandi, Gangori Bazaar, Janta Market, J.D.A. Market, Kanwar Nagar.
CHIC SHOP / Teatro Dhora The Dhora theater is in charge of my friend and has fun jewelry and a nice coffee. It is a shop that many foreigners who live in Jaipur like for their clothes, it is a great summer garment. 9 Yashwant Palace, Ajmer Road, dhoraindia.in
The curator
Pooja sood
Managing Director, Jawahar Kala Kendra
HOUSE OF WONDERS / Gyan Museum A private collection in a very well done space. It is run by jewelers: the father was an art lover. From textiles to jewelry, knives and nutcrackers, it is eclectic but beautifully displayed. G-1 / 21-23, Gems & Jewelry Zone Promotional Industrial Export Park, Sitapura Industrial Area, gyanjaipur.com
FABRICS FAB / Riddhi Siddhi If you like textiles, you should go to Riddhi Siddhi. You can buy the best mulmul and rolls in rolls, kurtis for 900 rupees, bedspreads fabulously covered by hand, garden umbrellas. 9 Govind Nagar (east), Amber Palace Road, riddhisiddhitextile.in
HEAVENLY HOTEL / Alsisar Haveli It is hidden in the city and the family still lives there. I love your food I enjoyed your thal and subzi and curry; It's like homemade food. Sansarchandra Rd, Shri Ram Colony, Sindhi Camp, alsisar.com; It doubles from 9,000 rupees per night.
The designer
Marie-Anne Oudejans
Fashion and interior decoration.
CONFIGURE A HIGH BAR / Rambagh Palace The bar is where I'm going to have a club sandwich and a drink. It is wonderful to sit on the verandah and look out onto the garden. It is completely timeless. Bhawani Singh Road, taj.tajhotels.com/en-in/taj-rambagh-palace-jaipur; doubles from £ 661 per night
Idli design boutique.
Photo:
Sara Hylton for The Wall Street Journal
FRANCO-STYLE / Idli Thierry Journo is a good friend of mine, and he has a really beautiful store called Idli. It makes prints, a great line for home and men's clothing: Indian designs with a French touch. Narain Niwas Palace Hotel, Narain Singh Road, idlidesign.com
BLOOM YONDER / Brigitte Singh Brigitte Singh makes extraordinary block prints: bathrobes, bedding, children's clothing, men's shirts, traditional block prints inspired by Mughal flowers. You can take the findings to your Hamptons home and it's perfect. Narad Ka Bagh, Amber, brigittesingh.com
Also, do not miss ...
Palladio Bar.
Photo:
Sara Hylton for The Wall Street Journal
Palladio Bar This captivating bar on the grounds of the Narain Niwas Palace hotel features spectacular East and West interiors by Marie-Anne Oudejans: think of Italian-style murals set amid blue-hued arches. Kanota Bagh, Narain Singh Road; bar-palladio.com / Rajmahal Palace A palace hotel for the 21st century, with art deco details and a peculiar and daring wallpaper. Sardar Patel Marg, Scheme C, sujanluxury.com/raj-mahal, it doubles from 41,000 rupees. / Baradari A restaurant hidden in the courtyard of the city palace for 300 years, with a fusion much better than what is expected from a restaurant in the museum: Royal Lal Maas, homemade pasta, apple jalebi with ice cream with rose petals. A great place to have a drink at night too. Jaleb Chowk, near the door n. ° 2, palace of the city, facebook.com/baradarijaipur
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