The secret of happiness, from a French kitchen

The secret of happiness, from a French kitchen https://i1.wp.com/www.eresviral.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/El-secreto-de-la-felicidad-desde-una-cocina-francesa.jpg?fit=97%2C146&ssl=1

The secret of happiness, from a French kitchen


UPENDING EXPECTATIONS It seems natural for Valérie Gilbert, president of Mauviel, the kitchenware company that her family founded in Normandy in 1830. During her school days, "the nuns tried everything to become a demure and obedient girl who would grow to make the needle ., but it did not work, "said Gilbert." This is what I decided I wanted to do when I was 12. I have always been fascinated by the technical processes of metallurgy. "


So in 1992, after a business school in England and a season at Xerox, Mrs. Gilbert returned to France and the family business. She ran it with her brother until 2006, when she became the sole owner. "When I took over, I opened the doors myself every morning at 4:30 a.m.," he said. "I worked packing kitchen utensils in the factory when I was not busy in my office, I did not want to run a hierarchical business."


At the end of those long days, Mrs. Gilbert went to the kitchen of her house in the seaside town of Saint-Pair-sur-Mer and prepared dinner for her family. "Cooking is how I relax," he said. "And the regular use of the pots, pans and casseroles we make gives us new ideas and keeps me focused on the goal of our business: to make the tools help people cook better." He recently received us in that kitchen, where he talked about Passions like peppers and vintage clothes while preparing a delicious roast pork loin.


The kitchen tools without which I can not live are: a stainless steel frying pan and a cocotte [lidded metal casserole]. I am obsessed with cooking with cocottes because I love the process of browning a roast: caramelize the meat and then cook it before stewing slowly in the same container. This method produces a lot of flavor and the meat is always tender.


My kitchen mentors were: my mother and my grandmother They were remarkable chefs who made amazing foie gras and elegant dishes like hot oysters in Champagne sauce. From them I learned the technique, but above all how to taste food, find harmony on a plate, even a simple one. Cooking is something like writing music.





Your favorite pan.



Your favorite pan.


Photo:
Francis Hammond for The Wall Street Journal




My pantry is always equipped with: Crème fraîche, salt of Maldon. I like its flavor and the size of the flakes: eggs, pasta, parmesan, bacon and ham. Also pepper, butter and good olive oil, like those made by Alexis Muñoz in Spain. Its oils are like silk. I love seasoning with lemon for seafood.


The ingredient that most excites me at this moment is: Salty butter made with the raw milk of the cows Froment du Léon, an ancient breed from the northern coast of Brittany. The cream of the milk is allowed to mature for a week before beating, which results in a bright yellow butter with a surprising texture. You can find it in Terroirs d'Avenir in Paris. I am also a pepper demon, and my latest discovery is from South Africa, a pepper with a slightly smoked flavor. It's great in vegetables.


On weeknights, I typically cook: Something quick, simple and delicious, like. flirtatious [elbow macaroni] With chopped ham, crème fraîche, some butter, salt, pepper and an egg yolk.


When I am entertained, I like: serve cooked dishes in cocotte, something like a roast pork loin with onions and figs. I also like to take the copper casserole to the table and serve it. Demystifies the kitchen creating a link between the kitchen and the dining room.


A typical breakfast for me is: A coffee and a cigarette. I mean, I'm French, right? I also like a good ham or mushroom omelette.





Cocotte with the elements of your pork roast.



Cocotte with the elements of your pork roast.


Photo:
Francis Hammond for The Wall Street Journal




A culinary trend that I am totally overcome is: nice food I hate restaurants where food comes to the table with small drops and dots all over the plate, and so many flowers that you could make a bouquet for a doll. This decoration is silly and adds nothing to the pleasure of eating. Well-cooked food is beautiful on its own, and I think the modern style of food has gone overboard.


My approach to cooking is very similar to my approach to cooking: lifetime. Appreciate simple things and do not do anything unnecessarily complicated. Take the time to do a job well, never lose your sense of humor, be generous, observant and adventurous. Above all, never stop learning.


In addition to the food, I am obsessed with: Gardens, especially whites. Did you notice the white agapanto outside? I love them. When I travel, I always try to find time to visit a favorite garden or discover a new one. I like English style more than French. I am also a great collector of vintage clothes, so I look for several sites online in search of treasures like the Celine bag I recently found. I love the idea of ​​giving a new life to something that someone else has loved, and I believe that quality is the antidote to environmentally destructive consumerism.


When I get home from a trip abroad, I look forward to: A good salty butter spread over a really big piece of bread. Life is made of small joys.






Roasted Pork Tenderloin



Roasted Pork Tenderloin


Photo:
Francis Hammond for The Wall Street Journal




Valérie Gilbert Roasted Pork Tenderloin

TOTAL TIME: 45 minutes IT SERVES: 4


3 tablespoons of grape or vegetable oil


1 rolled pork loin (2 pounds)


1 teaspoon coarse sea salt


½ teaspoon black pepper


2 small white onions, chopped


1 pound of white mushrooms, quartered


3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed


½ cup of dry white wine


1 cup of beef broth


6 sprigs of fresh thyme


1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. the pork is seasoned with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy casserole over medium-high heat. Brown pork everywhere, then remove and reserve.


2. Add the garlic, onions and mushrooms to the saucepan and sauté over medium-high heat until the onions are clear, 5-6 minutes. Add the wine and reduce it to half, approximately 5 minutes, scraping the brown pieces at the bottom of the pan. Add the broth and thyme, and cook for 3 minutes. Return the pork to the casserole, cover and bake in the oven until a thermometer inserted in the thickest part indicates 150 degrees, 20 minutes.


3. Transfer the roast to a cutting board and let stand 5 minutes. Cut the pork meat against the grain. Serve pork with vegetables and pan juices, plus rice, noodles or mashed potatoes.


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