The secret of the deep flavor of this dish
The secret of the deep flavor of this dish
THE BEST STEAK I've ever eaten was a chuletónA rib steak of a 6 year old ox. I had it this summer in the bushes of the province of León, Spain, in Bodega El Capricho, considered by many to be the best meat restaurant in the world. It had been aged dry for about 120 days and it was very rare. It tasted of iron and sweet grass, and the grease smelt intoxicatingly with popcorn and butter.
Many factors contributed to the intense flavor of the meat in El Capricho. The most important thing was the time, not in the kitchen or in the aging room, but in the helmet. It is a detail that few Americans consider or are interested in knowing about the animals they eat: the age they had at slaughter. But cooks and butchers are, increasingly, paying attention.
They know Older animals have more flavor. Without going too deep into biology, the concentrations of myoglobin, the protein that gives red meat much of its color and its mineral taste rich in iron, and the dark flesh of a chicken its darkness, increase in the muscles of an animal with use and age. A mature cow may have more than twice as much myoglobin as a young cow.
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The most important factor was the time, not in the kitchen or in the aging room, but in the helmet.
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The oxen that provide the meat at Bodega El Capricho can be up to 18 years old. Meanwhile, in the United States, "a calf can be born and reach a weight of 1,600 pounds in just 16 months," said Will Harris, a third-generation rancher and owner of White Oak Pastures in Georgia.
At the Durham in Durham, NC, and at Lantern, in nearby Chapel Hill, the chef and owner Andrea Reusing presents the meat of "retired" dairy cows from Chapel Hill Creamery whenever possible, even if she does not always mention it in the menu. "There is a slight fear factor" among customers, he said. "I think people have been sold a list of products about what the oldest animals are. But when people try it, they can not believe it. " He also uses stewed hens (layers of eggs after his years of laying) to make an "incredibly rich chicken broth that is a bright and shiny gold", which he serves with dumplings made of minced meat.
In Los Angeles, in Curtis Stone's Gwen Butcher Shop & Restaurant, they are selling the meat that causes the greatest fear factor of all: the lamb. "If I put a sign on my case, I could call it sheep instead of lamb," said Gwen's butcher, Andrew Sutton. "But I've been playing with the idea of just calling him lamb because I think people are starting to accept it."
Certainly, it was shown that this is the case in Washington, DC, where Zaytinya, of José Andrés, has organized three dinners of "complete sheep" since November. The most recent, in July, presented a 7-year-old East Frisian sheep.
Despite its growing appeal, this type of meat remains a relatively rare treatment. On Main Meats Street in Chattanooga, Tennessee, Chef Erik Niel said: "Our main meat supplier will call once or twice a year and tell us that he needs a cow because he can not breed, milk, or anything like that. These cows are the best animals that we have run through the store, without exception, absolutely magic flavor and marbling. "
On the west coast, Mindful Meats has managed to create a regular supply of beef from dairy cattle. His steak ribeye can be found in restaurants such as Autumn in Los Angeles and in Mr. Andrés' meat restaurant in Las Vegas, Bazaar Meat, where he receives the place of honor on the menu, which appears as old cow (old cow).
No restaurant has been committed to this new trend with more enthusiasm than Corrida, a Spanish restaurant recently opened in Boulder, Colorado. The menu of meats of a page offers the level of detail that is normally found in a wine list. Along with the rancher, the amount of time each steak has been aged in dry and the diet of each animal, each entry includes the age of the animal in the "harvest".
The best sellers are older cuts from Carter Country Meats, from Ten Sleep, Wyo. This fall, the restaurant offers ranch meat that spent between 8 and 12 years in pasture. "Four or five years ago, we would not have been talking about this," said chef and co-owner Amos Watts. "I'm ecstatic."
Illustration:
Kelsey Oseid
WHERE TO PURCHASE / order by mail meats of a certain age
While it's always good to check in at your local butcher or farmer's market, here are some reliable online sources for meat from animals that lived long enough to reach their maximum flavor:
Looking chickens After two years of roaming freely on the grass and laying eggs, these chickens are suitable for stew and pot. Its small size hides the great flavor that each one possesses. ($ 15, for a 2-pound chicken, whiteoakpastures.com)
MUTTON "When people say, 'I do not like lamb,' they're usually thinking of an old wool sheep that has a lot of lanolin in its flesh," said farmer-restaurateur Richard Holcomb of the Bella Bean Organics home delivery service. and the Durham. , NC, Piedmont restaurant, where older animals stand out. The lamb derived from the "hair" of the Bella Bean sheep is richer than the lamb but with an equally clean taste. ($ 22 for a pair of lamb legs, bellabeanorganics.com)
Hen and meatballs
Illustration:
Kelsey Oseid
A good laying hen should have a good amount of fat, as yellow as sunlight. Trim a bit of that before cooking and put it on low heat (with onions, if desired) to produce some spectacular schmaltz.
ACTIVE TIME Half an hour TOTAL TIME: 5½ hours IT SERVES: 4-5
To cook the chicken and the broth.
1 (3-4 pounds) of laying hen, or 2 smaller
3 quarts of cold water
3 medium carrots, peeled
3 stalks of celery
1 small onion, halved
1 head of garlic, divided in two by half, plus 1 clove of garlic, grated
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon of salt
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1¼ cups dry white wine
1 large leek, white and green parts cut into medium dice and washed, washed with green lid and reserved
1 cup of mixed or sliced mixed herbs, such as parsley, dill, chervil and chives, to decorate
For the meatballs:
¼ cup dried porcini mushrooms
1 slice of white bread, remove the crust and cut the bread into small pieces
¼ cup of broth
6 tablespoons butter without salt
½ cup of finely chopped shallots
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper
6 ounces of veal or chicken drumstick
2 eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup sliced scallions The grated 1 lemon, finely grated
one. In a 6-quart heavy saucepan, combine chicken (along with neck, gizzard, and heart, if available) with cold water. Bring to a simmer over high heat. As the water approaches low heat, begin to remove any grease or slag from the surface. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 5 minutes while continuing to bathe. Add a carrot, a stalk of celery, onion, garlic head, bay leaves, 1 tablespoon of salt, peppercorns and 1 cup of wine. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer until chicken is tender, 2½-3 hours.
two. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board. When it is cold enough to handle, remove the meat and skin and set aside. Return the bones to the pot and simmer, uncovered, for at least 1½ hours (and up to 4), adding leeks for the last 30 minutes.
3. While simmering, prepare dumplings: Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Soak the mushrooms in 1 cup of boiling water and bread in ¼ cup of chicken stock for 5 minutes, then squeeze the excess liquid from each. Finely chop the soaked mushrooms. Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet, suitable for baking, over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, shallots, ½ teaspoon of salt and ¼ teaspoon of pepper and sauté until the shallots are soft and lightly browned, 7-8 minutes. Meanwhile, chop the soaked bread and 10 oz. Of reserved beef and chicken meat. In a large bowl, combine crushed bread and chicken with ground beef, eggs, ½ cup chives, lemon zest, ½ teaspoon salt, and shallot and mushroom mixture. Form balls the size of a golf ball. If possible, refrigerate 1 hour before cooking.
Four. Place the pan to cook the shallots over medium heat and add the remaining butter. Gently add the meatballs to the pan and let cook, without disturbing, until golden brown, 5 minutes. Use a couple of tablespoons of soup to gently turn the dumplings. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake, spraying the dumplings with butter from the pan in the middle of cooking, until the dumplings are firm, 12-15 minutes.
5. Pour the broth through a fine mesh strainer. (Must have approximately 2 quarts, fill with water if necessary). Discard the vegetables and bones. Chop remaining leeks, carrots and celery into small pieces. Before serving, return the broth to a simmer and add the remaining wine and chopped vegetables. Cook over low heat until it softens, about 4 minutes. Add the herbs and remove the pot from the heat. Divide the dumplings between 4-5 bowls and the ladle soup. Season with pepper to taste.
-Adapted by Andrea Reusing of Durham, Durham, N.C.
WHERE TO EAT / Restaurants around the world that serve mature meat
Winery the caprice
Cattle raised locally and with a lot of love are undoubtedly the best steak in the world. The cave-shaped dining alcoves in the underground dining room encourage diners to get in touch with their most primal impulses. (Calle Carrobierzo, 28, 24767 Jiménez de Jamuz, León, Spain, bodegaelcapricho.com)
The durham
In this classic American cousin of Chapel Hill's Asian-influenced lantern, chef Andrea Reusing uses local ingredients, such as laying hens and dairy cows, from her egg and milk suppliers. (315 Chapel Hill St, Durham N.C., thedurham.com)
Main street meats
The meat is treated with the utmost seriousness in this otherwise informal combination butcher and restaurant. (217 E Main St, Chattanooga, Tenn., mainstreetmeatschatt.com)
The meat hook
Along with the occasional meats and deli meats of the older cows, the mature meats star in the special dinners at this Brooklyn butcher shop, like a recent feast with meat from a 9 year old Devon steer. (397 Graham Avenue, Brooklyn, N.Y., the-meathook.com)
Gwen butcher and restaurant
The Angelenos would not be expected to pronounce the old Seinfeld line "The salad has nuttin in this lamb!" But it is known that the lamb cut here has that effect. Watch for the "vintage" meat of Cream Co. as well. (6600 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA, gwenla.com)
Zaytinya
At the Mediterranean cuisine restaurant José Andrés, located in Washington, DC, chef Michael Costa produces modern take on regional dishes such as souvlaki with jalapeño bread and adana kebabs. Check the "events" section of your website for the next sheep dinner. (701 9th St NW, Washington, D.C., zaytinya.com)
Bazaar meat
Chef José Andrés tasted more than 500 cuts of meat before choosing the rib eye steak from Mindful Meats featured on the menu here. (SLS Las Vegas, 2535 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Las Vegas, sbe.com/restaurants/locations/bazaar-meat-las-vegas)
Autumn
This recently opened restaurant in La Ángeles, by chef Teresa Montaño, is strongly inclined towards Spanish obsessions: gin and tonics, tapas and steak from aged cows. (5715 N Figueroa St., Los Angeles, California, otonorestaurant.com)
Run
The commitment to transparency and well-aged meat puts this restaurant in a class by itself. Chef Amos Watts, raised in Nebraska, land of those who eat corn, has taken the new frontier of beef with the zeal of a convert. (1023 Walnut St, Boulder, Colorado, corridaboulder.com)
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