Has Fashion's art license gone too far?
Has Fashion's art license gone too far?
.Has Fashion's art license gone too far?
DEAD DOLLARS GRAPHICS. Socks by Andy Warhol. T-shirts by Jean-Michel Basquiat. Lately, my email inbox is full of press releases from fashion companies that launch these articles. These are not, of course, the manual work of the artists themselves (R.I.P. Jerry, Andy and Jean-Michel), but the result of associations of licensing between a brand (Tateosian, Happy socks Y Diamond Supply Co., respectively) and a farm, foundation or company.
These types of offers have been negotiated for a long time by mass merchandise, often items for children adorned with cartoons (think of an Iron Man backpack). Lately, however, more sophisticated license agreements are being made between designer brands and other entities. Calvin Klein has been working with the Andy Warhol Foundation on clothing and accessories with the works of the deceased artist. This season, you can also buy a Comme des Garçons men's shirt with buttons printed with the work of Jean-Michel Basquiat (the artist participated in a CDG show in 1987). Just a couple of weeks ago, at her last show for women in Paris, Gucci showed a bag with the shape of Mickey Mouse's head, with the handle of the bag over her ears.
Diamond Supply Co., a skateboarding brand based in Los Angeles, recently launched a licensed collection of Basquiat, whose pieces sold out quickly.
"Brands seek to distinguish themselves for a period of one season or more, and seek to obtain that 'pop' of alignment with another great brand," he said. Douglas's hand, a lawyer in New York City who specializes in working with fashion and lifestyle brands. "And Warhol is still good, Basquiat is still good, Lichtenstein is still good." Traditionally, Hand explained, fashion licensing agreements positioned the brand as the licensee: Tom Ford, for example, lending his trademark to a line of sunglasses or a collection of fragrances. Increasingly, we are seeing the inverse form of the license: where the brand is the one that pays the copyright to a foundation or company for the right to use its images.
Once it could have been unthinkable for a luxury label like Gucci to work with a mass market brand like
or a conventional brand like Uniqlo to use the work of an artist from capital A like Jean-Michel Basquiat. And while those in the art world can still tremble from $ 14.90 Uniqlo T-Shirt Printed with Basquiat's "Beat Bop" painting, this type of crossover has become a broad cultural phenomenon. Automakers announce their cars in the style of indie rock songs, basketball players form the moonlight as icons of style and their next pair of underwear MeUndies can come modeled with the scribbles of Keith Haring.
The scribbles of the late Keith Haring can be found in the $ 24 writings of the underwear company MeUndies.
Today's culture is "so fluid," he said. Beverly Semmes, artist and visiting professor at the University of Pratt in New York. When he was starting his artistic career in the early 1990s, "there was not much interesting cross between art and fashion". The fashion brands approached her to collaborate, but she hastened to say no. "I had a lot of offers for things with fashion people and I just could not even think about that," he said. However, nowadays, Ms. Semmes, whose mixed-media facilities have often referred to clothes, is more accommodating in the relationships of art and fashion, especially the work of Calvin Klein with the German sculptor Sterling Ruby. , who designed the brand's flagship store in New York and has made installations track shows He noted that such partnerships allow the artist to reach a wider audience and gain a financial boost.
On the brand side, Nick Tershay, the owner of Diamond Supply Co., bet that Basquiat's work license for a collection would bring new customers. "The people of the art world are like 'Wow, Diamond Supply Co., that's great, I've never heard of that, but they're doing Basquiat [clothes]"Said Mr. Tershay, who is particularly proud that the Broad Museum in Los Angeles, whose collection includes original works by Basquiat, will carry his line in his gift shop.
The Swedish brand of socks Happy Socks currently sells printed socks with the artwork of Andy Warhol. Mr. Warhol is perhaps the most authoritative of all artists.
However, there is a fundamental reason why the work of Basquiat, Warhol and Haring in particular is seen so frequently in everything from hoodies to boxer shorts and a tray of ceramic keys: they have passed away. That is why, as Ms. Semmes pointed out, there is less danger of diluting her reputation, something that a living artist would fear. (Which does not mean that the properties of deceased artists are not protective: Basquiat carefully reviewed each design that Diamond Supply Co. created using the artist's work).
However, it is difficult to imagine an artist like Warhol, annoyed to see his box of Banana in a sock, even when he was alive. Warhol "participated in several licensing projects during his life, either in collaboration with [fashion designers] Halston or Stephen Sprouse or watches with
"Said Michael Dayton Hermann, licensing director of The Andy Warhol Foundation for Visual Arts, Inc. The foundation manages the latest artist catalog and uses royalties for cash donations in support of the arts, more than $ 200 million since 1987. Warhol he can be a commercial and a diligent administrator, "said Mr. Dayton Hermann, who has overseen everything from a soup can of Warhol Campbell to a Fragrance of $ 95 with Comme des Garçons. "Warhol said that art is what you can get."
Write to Jacob Gallagher in Jacob.Gallagher@wsj.com
.
ORIGINAL ARTICLE THE WALL STREET JOURNAL
Related
SOURCE LINK ERESVIRAL.COM https://www.beviral.online
Comentarios
Publicar un comentario